Friday, July 21, 2017

My yellow brick road to motherhood

My daughter is a month away from turning 1. To mark this huge milestone in my life, I mean, her life, I've decided to share the story of "how it all began" for us. I’ve recently begun blogging on Instagram. I write about some of my favourite books and those from my baby’s library.

@Ghiasireads has introduced me to parents across the globe. We exchange stories that usually end with “me too” because, parenting. It’s so unique yet just the same for everyone. So, as this community continues to grow, I was encouraged to say a little something about our own journey to parenthood.

A few months ago, the Indian version of one of the UK's bestselling parenting magazines, Mother & Baby, shot with us to celebrate their 9 years in the country. I was also invited to write the cover story for them, and here's what I wrote: 

I am a medical marvel. I was born the last of three children, exactly 8 months after my mother had a Copper-T fixed in place to seal the fate on their family of 4. I was a kilogram of wrinkled skin at birth. Cut to, 15 years later; my period had still not made an appearance. A quick sonogram told us that I had something called Polycystic Ovarian Disease (PCOD, at the time). I was overweight, suffered from severe acne, and was promptly put on birth control pills to regularize my cycle.

For the next ten years, I took really good care of my body. I worked out, lost weight, and remained fairly healthy. It was not like my cycle was suddenly watching the calendar, but I could afford to get off the pill every now and then. In the meantime, I was constantly reminded, by articles, my doctor, my family, and society-at-large, what a tough time I was going to have to get pregnant.

The meet cute

I met my husband, Nadir, when I was 23. We were married two year later. At the back of mind, the nagging voices kept telling me how tough PCOD, now called Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome, was going to make it for us to start a family.

Nadir was well aware of the situation, and we always wanted kids. So, on our first wedding anniversary, we decided to begin the long journey that was in store for us to get pregnant. We were sure it would take at least a year. Then, IVF? Hip injections? Who knew what the future held.

Our daughter, Ziya, was born exactly 9 months later.



Yes, a medical marvel.

Too good to be true

The symptoms began to show less than a week into my pregnancy. I had terrible morning sickness, but I dismissed it as a stomach bug. My chest felt heavy and my stomach felt bloated, but I assumed it was the irregular period that would finally show up. I took a test a month later, many miles from home, when I was visiting a friend in The Nilgiris. She was 2 months pregnant herself and saw through my tell-tale symptoms.

The news of my pregnancy brought a lot of joy to both our families. It also brought more morning, afternoon, and evening sickness for the rest of my first trimester. But to begin with, Nadir and I were over the moon. We were immensely grateful that this baby had picked us, and so soon! The rest of pregnancy was a breeze. We spent half a month in Japan when I was 5 months pregnant. I would comfortably walk 6 to 7 kms every day without feeling exhausted.

At 5’ 9’’, my frame hid the 20kgs I put on pretty well. I didn’t look pregnant all the way until the last month; when the back ache, sleeplessness and general unease began. But, there’s nothing to write home about my pregnancy. It was lovely.

The most important aspect about it, and something that has become very close to my heart, was my decision to attend a workshop on breastfeeding and lactation. 



The importance of being informed

I was 6 months pregnant, and one of the two pregnant women in a sea of new moms, at the workshop. The session opened my eyes to a host of trials and tribulations these new moms were going through because they were not armed with the right knowledge on breastfeeding BEFORE the baby came along.

The lactation consultant held a brief and enriching experience on the dos and don’ts of breastfeeding, on things to watch out for early on, and the general confidence a woman needs to maintain in order to believe her body can handle the most natural thing in the world.

Happy birthday

Ziya’s birth, just like my pregnancy, was uneventful and a breeze. She arrived on her due date, completely naturally, all of 6.7 pounds (3 kgs). I had refused an epidural but settled for an episiotomy. 

My doctor performed a procedure called ‘stripping’, a day before her birth, which set the contractions in full swing the same night. The only book I had read, which was What to Expect When You’re Expecting, had told me loud and clear to wait out the slower contractions. So, I patiently went about my business the whole of the next day, and got myself admitted to the hospital when my contractions were 2 minutes apart. I was hooked to an IV and put on Pitocin that sped up my labor.

Except the last one hour, when I screamed loud enough to scare the entire neighborhood, and almost broke a nurse’s arm (unintentionally), the labor pains were really not that bad. Imagine cramps, but ones that come and go in bursts. Lastly, imagine a large watermelon pushing against your vagina and rectum; yes, that has got to hurt!

Ziya was born, without event, 3 hours after we arrived at the hospital.



Brand new mommy

As the lactation workshop had mentioned, my doctor put her to my breast immediately after she was born and she latched on beautifully. The OT staff was kind enough to click our first family picture while they kept us entertained with cheerful banter.

I have full support at my in-law’s home and I never went to my parent’s house, as is tradition, during my pregnancy or after Ziya was born. Nadir was hell bent on massaging and bathing her himself, and so, we only employed the services of massage lady for me.

We were both also keen on keeping her off formula as much as possible. She was formula fed for the first 2 days at the hospital, and because my milk hadn’t come in, I didn’t refute the decision. But after that, she was exclusively and absolutely breastfed until she was started on solids at 6 months of age. And because breastfeeding went well for me, I lost 10 kgs in a week after the delivery.



It takes two

Nadir and I have handled Ziya by ourselves from the minute she was born. I have a tremendously supportive family, and they helped me by completely managing the house while I could focus on the baby. They are also involved in her routine whenever we need them. Moreover, as a freelance writer, I get to squeeze in a few assignments while they happily coo and caa at her.

Ziya has always been a poor sleeper and slow to pile on the grams. I was constantly asked to give her formula, at least once a day, so that she would sleep better, or gain weight and get chubby. But Nadir and I knew that her frequent waking or lean structure is not because she’s starving. She showed us no signs of hunger after being breastfed, and so, we had the confidence to persevere and stick to what we believed in. I am repeatedly told that some children just happen to be bad sleepers, and we seem to have scored us our own.

I do not, for a minute, think it would have been possible for me to nurture and nourish Ziya without the undying support from my husband and family. Nadir is one of the most hands-on fathers I’ve met. When I’m tired from waking up for the 4th time at night, he jumps to my rescues even without being asked. She loves a good cuddle with him and that’s testimony enough. He still massages and bathes her even after he’s had the longest day at work. He maintains a blog to document everything about our daughter in the hopes that she may read it one day and relive our journey.



Baby steps: her and me

Ziya is way ahead of meeting her milestones at 7.5 months. She has been cruising (holding onto things and walking) for a few weeks now; but last week, she figured out how to bend her knees and sit back down too! She seems ready to start walking on her own as soon as her feet will allow it. I was lucky enough to document her first smile, when she was 40 days old with a selfie, a picture I will treasure forever. She has been blabbering since she was barely two months old; we are told it means she will be a talkative little one!

I had my first meltdown when, on the insistence of enforcing a tradition, her hair was shaved when she was 10 days old. It upset me deeply and I wailed for a good hour; much more than her. In retrospect, I am glad it was done with that early because her full head of hair, one she was born with, grew back pretty quickly and in time to sport it with her pretty frocks.

For now, she enjoys the three small meals we feed her. A hyperactive baby, she likes to be done with her meal as soon as possible so that she can get back to crawling around the house.

As a new mom, my body has experienced exhaustion like never before. I am constantly sleep deprived and hungry! I’m still eating for two as I plan to breastfeed her way past her first birthday. Even with the support and confidence of an extremely involved husband, we have our tiffs because we want to do our best for Ziya.

We hope Ziya will grow up to be a strong-willed, assertive woman , one who stands up for what she believes. There is nothing more that will grow our hearts than to see our daughter in the best of health, fulfilling her destiny with her best foot forward.

After all, she’s no less than a medical marvel herself.

An edited version of this story appeared in the May 2017 issue of Mother & Baby magazine India. You can find the copy here: https://www.magzter.com/IN/Next-Gen-Publishing-Ltd/Mother-&-Baby-India/Lifestyle/221190

All text and images are the IP of Sabiha Ghiasi and Mother & Baby India. Do not copy without prior permission.

Shot by: Akshay Kulkarni

Sunday, July 09, 2017

10 must-have books and authors for your baby's library

My daughter will complete 11 months in a few days. She was first introduced to a book a little after her 2-month birthday. She has been read to ever since. We are slowly but steadily building her little library alongside our own.

While my Instagram page dedicated to books, @ghiasireads, is full of suggestions for mommies, daddies and babies, I've compiled a comprehensive list of books/authors that a baby absolutely must be introduced to within her first year (and through toddlerhood)! Each of them is vibrant, well-written, and has a lesson to be learnt in the end.

1) Authored and illustrated books by Eric Carle

Brown Bear, Brown Bear, What Do You See? Well, I see a highly successful children's book author. This was the first book we read to my baby, and she laughed! We got full giggles from a 2-month-old! *I have a picture for proof, read this till the end*. Eric Carle is a guru for new parents, and for good reason. Apart from the one suggested above, we also love The Very Hungry Caterpillar by him. It is a colourful treat to the eyes that can later be used to introduce the concepts of overeating, and metamorphosis, to a child. We also have The Little Learning Library by this author. It has tiny, hard-bound books on animals sounds, colours, words, and numbers. Perfect for tiny hands to handle!

2) My First Gruffalo, and other introductory books, by Julia Donaldson

The Gruffalo is a tale of a smart little mouse, on a walk through a forest. It is centered around his cunning,which keeps him alive even as he encounters several dangerous animals. In the end, he even manages to save himself from the dreaded Gruffalo, who is a hybrid between a grizzly bear and a buffalo. While I can't wait to buy this book and add it to our library, I have managed to introduce one of the 'My First Gruffalo' books to my tiny, it's called Colours and is illustrated beautifully by Alex Scheffler. You can also explore Numbers, Animal Actions, and Opposites from this series.

3) Multi-lingual books

We are a multi-lingual household. On a good day, three regional languages are spoken under our roof. English is omnipresent too. The first Hindi/English book I bought for my daughter is called Das Din by Pridhee Kapoor Gupta and illustrated by Alicia Souza. It is the story of a prince who falls ill and recovers in 10 days. It is meant to teach a baby her numbers from 1 to 10 in Hindi. I love the interactive life-the-flap design of the copy. It's smooth on the eyes and intelligently crafted. I've also added Follow the Ants (Chiteeyon ke Peeche Peeche) and Five Little Monkeys (Paanch Chhote Bandar) by Tulika Publications to our shelves. They are longer, well-told stories in English, followed by Hindi, and since they are paperbacks, I'd recommend them to be handled by a 3-year-old, at least. Now, I'm hunting for a few good reads in Marathi and Gujarati. 

4) Babylit by Gibbs Smith

What book shelf worth its mettle is complete without its share of classics? And no daughter of mine is going to miss out on them! Babylit is an educational, bright, and gorgeous way to introduce classics to your child. They have primers for each concept such as camping, colours, and nonsense even! Primers are an introduction to a larger concept. That's why they have key words and phrases from the classic stories. We have The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, Jabberwocky, The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn and Alice in Wonderland for now. Uff, I can't recommend them enough.

5) Sing-along books by Sandra Boynton

That children make you do the damnest things is common knowledge. Mine has turned me into a singer. And, as per usual, books have brought about this new-found *talent*. Tickle Time, Snuggle Puppy, and Belly Button are few of the sing-along books we have from the very talented author, Sandra Boynton. I found catchy tunes for these easy rhyme-scheme books on YouTube. My daughter loves her mom's hoarse voice and bounces around in approval.

6) Beginner concepts, lift-the-flap books by Dr Seuss

I am really trying hard to hold off on buying the whole lot of books by the imitable Dr Seuss. Most of the amazing content by the author is best appreciated by *at least* a pre-schooler. But I am weak when it comes to books (and food). I chanced upon Special Shapes, and Super Senses, two lift-the-flap hard-bound books by Dr Seuss that are ideal for babies! Of course, I got them and we love them. They will help when I want to introduce shapes and senses (such as hearing, smelling, touching, etc) to my girl. For now, we are loving exploring the magnificent colours that come with the various Dr Seuss characters.

7) Spot by Eric Hall

Spot, the cute Labrador puppy, has interesting adventures with his little family, in lift-the-flap form. Authored by Eric Hall, this cutie is another great way to introduce dogs, cats, and other pet animals to a baby. We currently read, Spot says Goodnight and Spot Goes to the Park, together. I'd recommend handling the lift-the-flap books yourself before letting the baby pull at them, ultimately tearing things off, and trying to eat them. *true story*.

8) Peter Rabbit by Beatrix Potter

We love Peter Rabbit! We have a finger-puppet book on this bunny that is a riot with my daughter. While Where is Peter Rabbit? is the classic long-format story ideal for a pre-schooler, The Peter Rabbit Finger-Puppet book aims to introduce the child to numbers. It is simple, highly interactive, and an easy-to-read introduction to inhabitants of a garden. My daughter tried to eat the puppet rabbit's nose, but that's a story for another time.

9) Peppa Pig

I will be honest, I found the Peppa Pig commercialisation so tacky! I looked down upon the franchise, before I got pregnant. Why did kids need tiffin boxes with Peppa Pig on them? What happened to good ol's Mickey Mouse or Donald Duck? But, like SO many things parenthood made me, I swallowed my words and bought a Peppa Pig book for my daughter. The thing is, I am one to keep up with the times; and if Peppa Pig is the flavour of the decade, then so be it! We have the board book called My Daddy from this collection; it has cute illustrations and very real reasons why Peppa, the pig, loves her daddy. *Not like these kids need a lot of reason to love their daddies*. 

10) Dear Zoo (and other books) by Rod Campbell

The original Dear Zoo book is a lift-the-flap interactive book that aims to introduce a baby to the concept of zoo animals. I absolutely hate zoos. I may like the large, natural habitats that are recreated for animals in a few first-world countries, but I haven't seen those to make up my mind yet. So, I gave the cages in the original book a miss, for now, and got the Dear Zoo with Animal Cutouts. It's a cute little story of a child writing to a zoo to send her some animals to play with, but sending them back for various practical reasons. She ends up keeping a puppy because it was perfect!

Here was a peek into my little daughter's little library. This is an on-going project for a lifetime. So, please feel free to add your comments on the books that your tiny tot loves. Don't forget to tell me what they like and why!

Oh, and here's the picture proof I promised:


My little (and big) reader!



Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Confessions of a 6-month-old mom

Our daughter is six months old. When I say our daughter, I mean this tiny result of the generations of so many families that have come together and, finally, resulted in her.

When my mother is driving me crazy with a MUST (read in Hindi and English) parenting tip or when my father-in-law has ordered the most toxic-looking noisy toys, I try to remember that she is theirs too.

But, of course, and most importantly, and without kidding ourselves, firstly, I am a 6-month-old first-time mom.

To mark this momentous occasion, I've dusted my laptop, and decided to write about what I've learned so far, how I feel, and what I would love to share:

  • She is the first newborn/ infant/ baby I've held.
  • I haven't slept for more than 4 hours at a stretch in the past 6 months.
  • I have exclusively breastfed her for 184 days at an average of 10 times per 24 hours.
  • There is no dignity in childbirth.
  • But it's been the easiest part so far.
  • I am tremendously proud of how well my body has handled pregnancy, a completely natural delivery, and sleep deprivation.
  • My lower abdomen looks like a stretch-marky bag of Jell-O.
  • I am constantly told how "lucky" I am and how "grateful" I should be to have an involved husband, like I have scored the perfectly trained nanny.
  • I hope he is told the same thing about me in his circle.
  • Don't tell me my kid is thin. I might punch your face or burst into tears.
  • I've cried louder than her when her hair was shaved, during her first shot, and when she was born.
  • I've cried a lot.
  • Motherhood has gotten me closer to a lot of my family and friends with children.
  • I'm still learning to be patient.
  • I used to be an assertive, decisive, and quick thinker.
  • I've spoken to at least 20 people, including three doctors, on the best way to get her ears pierced: gunshot or thin string of gold? Ended up abandoning the idea indefinitely. 
  • I've whined about her erratic sleep pattern to anyone who will listen.
  • The first month of her life is a blur.
  • The color, consistency, timing, and appearance of poop has never been of greater significance.
  • I've browsed at least 200 pictures of her while she napped.
  • Some days are so hard.
  • I've resolved to take a break and go do fun things alone.
  • I've either called or texted to check on her or browsed pictures of her, every 15 minutes.  
  • I hear phantom baby cries all the time.
  • It doesn't take many words from anyone to make me feel like a crappy mom.
  • When people ask me why the baby is crying, more often than not, I have the same idea as them. Which is none.
  • I have watched her go from being unable to balance her neck to sitting up all by herself.
  • I have struck conversations with moms of all ages, randomly, while shopping, eating, sitting in a garden, everywhere.
  • Children unite women like very few other things.
  • I have encyclopedia-level knowledge on sleep regression, growth spurts, latching, WHO weight charts, milestones, you get the drift.
  • Dr Google is my best friend.
  • I am now part of an unorganized group of women who are truly ALWAYS there for each other. We have texted at 4am, chatted and reassured each other for hours, and discussed our deepest, darkest feelings openly.
Once you go mom, you can't go back.

See you again before she's 16, hopefully. 
Oh hey, mini me!





Wednesday, May 11, 2016

5 things I learned about Japan

When I returned from my solo trip to New York City back in mid-2013, I was star struck. I had seen nothing so beautiful, well planned, systematic, and (relatively) clean. I visited four first-world countries after that but NYC remained my favourite. I wouldn’t stop ranting about it. New York this, East Coast that.

My husband picked Japan for a 15-day vacation in April. It was completely his idea because I remember resisting it.

“Who goes to Japan for a holiday?” I’d asked. Right enough, every single person I told about my upcoming holiday asked me the exact same question; or at least framed it as one of the many questions they asked: “Why Japan? Are you going there for work?”

A very large part of me does not want to write what I am about too because it fears that Japan will become the next Switzerland if Indians discovered it. By that I mean a samosa stall at Mount Jungfrau (for real).


I mean, come on!
But I am going to say it because Japan makes the East Coast look like a cranky little village. Here are a few observations I made in the country of tomorrow. After all, it is already tomorrow in Japan!

Chilling scenes at Kyoto's Imperial Palace
1)     Japan is affordable 

Yup, that’s what a blanket statement looks like. Let me explain, bottled water costs YEN 95 for 2 litres which is about Rs 50. Singapore, on the other hand (and for comparison), is one of the most expensive when it comes to packaged water (in my experience).

We ate scrumptious and wholesome local food for as little as Rs 500 for two in all of the cities we visited. And we lived in the most central parts of Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo for merely Rs 4000 a night. Planning is key; the country has something for everyone.   

Entry to most gardens is free. 
























2)    Japan is one of the most beautiful, culturally rich, and scientifically advanced countries in the world

And are they punctual or what!? I thought I was type A. While you know about the scientifically advanced bit, the bullet train seriously goes so fast, I had to wait for my ears to pop every 5 minutes, Japan has so much more than sakura (cherry blossom) and anime.

For example, in the month of April, Kyoto, which is home to Gion – the geisha district, hosts Miyako Odori (Dance of the Capital). It is a collaborative performance of dance, music, and elaborate set design by maikos (geishas in training) and professional geishas. While you won't understand a word if you don’t know Japanese, the essence of the show and the art of Japanese story-telling will stay with you for ever.


But it is drop-dead beautiful first!
3)    The Japanese are SO friendly!

This is for real. We experienced a good dose of their amicable nature in all the three cities we stayed. Yes, even bustling and busy Tokyo.

Picture this: Two very Indian travellers are lost again looking for a restaurant on their TripAdvisor app so they enter an eatery to ask for directions. The girl goes to the open counter, gets the server’s attention and points at her phone. What happens next?

The server understood what I was asking her but didn’t know how to explain the location to me. So, as any Japanese would, she left what she was doing and walked the 200 meter distance to the location with us.

This happened 3 times in different settings.

4)    There is no place for the vegetarian in Japan

If you’re a fussy eater who is constantly on the move across neighbourhoods in Japan, you better not get hungry without an eating plan. I’d say the same thing to vegetarians, vegans, people with food allergies, etc.

We once ordered a vegetarian vegetable Japanese salad that came topped with a generous helping of minced chicken. Besides, all our orders were in sign languages because restaurants rarely have menus in English. Which brings me to the next observation…


But loads for vegetation!
5)    The Japanese don’t need no English

When you are that humble, self-sufficient, and proud to be Japanese, you don’t need English to get you by! I’d peek into the phones of fellow commuters on the subway and I’d see them typing away or browsing the internet in Japanese. I didn’t see one local read or say anything in English (unless forced by our party of 2). And I like to get comfortable and stare.

We visited the tourist centre in Nara and the only girl we spoke to in fluent English (in 15 days) was shocked to learn we didn’t know how to write our mother tongue perfectly. 

When I asked her if she could write Japanese, pat came the reply, “Of course! I am Japanese!”


So, like, I love Japan. I want to go back. Sigh.

PS: I have some more pictures put up on Instagram: @SabGhiasi Plus, my food tales are documented at @Gobble_up
One can only stop and stare at beautiful things.

Wednesday, November 04, 2015

Kaas - The Valley of Flowers and Thoseghar Falls in Satara

Another long weekend found us in Satara, some 250 odd kms from home. I've visited Mahabaleshwar, some 50 kms from here, since I was 4 years old. But we never managed to make our way to this bustling city before. 

Satara is rich in flora and fauna, especially after the rains. We visited Kaas, Maharashtra's own Valley of Flowers and the beautiful Thoseghar village and falls that has the most amazing winding ghats leading up to it. Unfortunately for us, it rained an hour before we arrived in Kaas and all the flowers were asleep.

Cox&Kings published the bit I wrote about the drive up to Thoseghar and what to expect. 


The Europe-esque pictures (courtesy, the husband) do justice to the sights to behold on your way up to the falls. Here are a few other pictures of Kaas and Satara that we captured during our short stay.

Posers are gonna pose!



The sleepy Valley of Flowers in Kaas, Satara.

The beautiful Kaas Lake on a sunny day. Sigh. 

The windmills really left us fascinated. They're so BIG!
This is the only way to fully experience the rolling hills and the wind in the air.

All pictures courtesy: Nadir Kanthawala

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Trekking in Harishchandragad, Maharashtra


I've tried to update this travel series. I promise; I even went to Dubai looking for inspiration. Unfortunately, I only found sand and glass buildings that would appeal to no one in their right mind. So I came back upset and generally tired.

Then, I was introduced to Harishchandragad in Ahmednagar, Maharashtra. My husband, one of my best buds, and I went hiking here one Saturday.

I wrote about my experience and the good people and CnK published it. Here's a link:

Look at this, will ya?

Nadir under a waterfall; cooling off.
How many waterfalls are there? Let me count...

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Mount Batur Trek in Bali, Indonesia

During the year I spent researching our impending honeymoon in Bali, I frequently came across high recommendations for a trek atop an active volcano. It is called Mount Batur and is closest to the small touristy town of Ubud.


Many adventure companies offer this trek and we could have booked ourselves online; but Indians that we are, we decided to do a bit of market research when we got to Ubud. Our hotel was more of a quaint cottage with a cute infinity pool that overlooked a lush green valley.


Told you so.
We were promptly handed two large umbrellas as we boarded a shuttle that would take us away from our rustic stay to the centre of the town.

A light drizzle began as we made our way to one of these many tour company stalls. The man behind the counter was extremely helpful and sold us this trek package for half the amount we had budgeted. Why? Mostly because January is part of the rainy season in Bali and not many people think of climbing a volcano at such a time. Especially not Indians on their honeymoon; even he seemed amused.  


A little history on us and trekking:

My husband and I have trekked before, during our respective trips to Himachal. I struggled with power yoga for a whole year before our trip to Bali. I may not be as flexible as my instructor would have wanted, but I can definitely do 100 surya namaskars like my life depends on it.  Both of us *believe* we are fit in the average sense of the word.


Back to climbing up Mount Batur


We were signing up for a sunrise trek, so we knew we’d have an early pick up. The booking guy told us to be ready at two the next morning. I have to mention here, the Balinese people are sticklers for time. Then again, so are the two of us.


Our driver and us were ready to roll up the mountains at 2 05 am. We made our way up the winding ghats from our hotel for a good one hour before we stopped at another hotel to pick up two of our other companions. It began to pour as we waited in the car for the couple to make an appearance.


Inhibition began to creep in as sheets of rain hit the windshield ahead of us. After a good half an hour later, at about 3 30 am, the couple ran towards our car huddled under a windcheater. The two apologised profusely and admitted to have forgotten altogether about their booking. The five of us tucked in with our windows rolled up and were on our way again.


Another half an hour of climbing later, we were met with a huge sign board that said Welcome to Mount Batur, or some such. We halted at what smelled like a coffee farm and saw various groups of trekkers chit-chatting and stuffing down some breakfast. Not a brown person in sight, we noted.


As many of the others began to leave, our party of four was served banana pancakes and black coffee. We ate and drank in big gulps. We were then asked to board the car once again.

The rain had turned into a lazy drizzle by now and a soft wind began to blow. We drove a bit under the huge sign and stopped at a large ground. It had a tin-roof office of the association of guides at Mount Batur at one end of it and toilets at the other. Our driver introduced us to our guide for the trek, a broad-smile, local, 15-year-old girl, who’d take us to our sunrise.


She handed us bright flashlights before we were on our way. Our group was a bit behind the 100-odd trekkers making the ascend that morning, so we walked briskly from the word go.

It was hardly a climb in the beginning. The path was broad and covered with loose black volcano soil. I remarked to my husband that this it was going to be easy-peasy if the roads are so broad and only slightly tilting. But somehow, he asked me to wait and watch.


Eventually, our Australian friends kept pace with our nimble guide but we started to lag behind. About 45 minutes into the climb, the real trek began. We took more water and gasping-for-air breaks as the path began to narrow and get steeper.


We passed silhouettes of various crops dancing in the wind and dodged quite a few stray rocks on the way. We were leaving the vast landscape behind quite steadily. Soon enough, we had caught up with the other groups that had left ahead of us and our guide met more and more of her friends.


An hour into the trek, my lungs threatened to collapse. The husband had a six-kilo backpack with his camera and equipment and was really sweating it out too. The night sky was still above us and the many stars twinkled at intervals.


Somewhere towards what seemed the end, there was a sudden incline in the terrain and only one person would climb at a time. Many other guides, who were easily half our ages, chatted with us on the way to the top. They wanted to know where we were from and what we doing in their land. They were most friendly. But with the barely there level of oxygen, I mostly stuck to sign language to respond.


At about 6 am, we were all asked to rush up. It was only 20 minutes till the sunrise and we could miss it at no cost. Our guide requested one of her friends, a boy of 14, to help us get to the summit while she went ahead with the other couple. Yup, Indians don’t climb mountains! How ironic. What with the Himalayas across our border and all.


Sun's on the way.
After a lot of slipping, and skidding, and skinning my palms, and what seemed like a life time, we were atop the mountain at 6 15am. After all that rain and scary weather in the past few days, the horizon seemed quite clear.



It is the worst to have cold wind dry your sweat but we were too distracted by the slow and steady sunrise behind Mount Agung ahead of us. As the first morning light broke, we had a clear view of Lake Batur by the feet of the mountain, edged with fields in various shades of green.

Nature brings you - Sun!
And then, just like that, the sun was up even as an ominous sheet of dark clouds glided towards it. The climb was well worth it. A few minutes of frantic photo-clicking ensued and we settled in to enjoy the view. Just for the drama, a mass of clouds decided to engulf everything in our line of vision and it seemed like we were floating in the sky for a while.


This can happen too.
All in all, this trek is highly recommended, honeymoon or not. Make sure you have trekking shoes on, or ones with a great grip, because the soil is fine and loose. You may sweat climbing up but you’re going to need a jacket at the top. Water and sunscreen are important too as it’s going to get hot during the two-hour-long descend


On our way down. Such a beauty.

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