I’ve been around lately. (Quite literally, no
innuendo intended). It has been an exciting and busy work season since I was
last smacked in the face with an idea for a series. But all it took was a
little change of scene, and I’m ready to write again. Season three on this
blog, which will be a three-part series, is about my first time in Europe. I
got to travel to the northern region of Belgium, which is known as Flanders, in
the last week of September.
I visited four cities in five days and seriously had the time of my life.
So in the first episode, I would like to introduce
you to my current favourite city in the world—Bruges, a happy little place in
western Belgium.
PS: If you’re flying with Jet Airways to the far foreign this month, take a moment to sift through the thick,
glossy magazine that you will find below your tray table and right behind the
chart on emergency landing. When you find this story in it, stand up and
say this to no one in particular, “I know who wrote this!”
I’d do it.
Falling in love with Bruges is easy, leaving
it is not.
I’ve always
imagined my life with background music. While most days demand incessant
drum-roll as I chase a deadline, the distorted riffs of an electronic guitar
suits others. But I was welcomed into Bruges early one morning, quite literally,
with the rhythmic, well-orchestrated pealing of bells.
Like in
the days of yore
A cold wind
rustled the leaves of a large tree as our group of five dodged its shade to
bask in the warm sunlight. Though we had the choice of being shown around the
city in a horse-drawn carriage, we opted to walk on its cobbled paths for a
guided tour.
Cycles whizzed
past us, always being given right of way, as we strolled along rows of
colourful brick houses with sloping roofs. A few big ones looked like typical
gothic-style castles, and were surrounded by stained-glass window towers. “You
could buy your own heaven back then”, our guide said pointing at the golden
gilding work on a turret beside one such house.
One of the
narrow, winding lanes led us to an open-spaced compound set against the
backdrop of a tranquil canal. A pink house with green window frames stood
beside it, with a small red boat tied to its brown fence. After all the swooning
girls in the group were literally pulled away from it, we ambled towards our
next destination.
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The next big SIGH is right around the corner.
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The Belgian Bling
Contrary
to popular belief, the art of diamond making actually began in Bruges in the 15th
century. It then moved to Antwerp, which consequently became the hub for
diamond trade in the world.
Horse carriages
trotted ahead of us as we stopped at the square of Burg, which is a World Heritage
Site and part of the city’s historic centre. Bruges’ City Hall, better known as
Stadhuis or Belgium’s oldest city hall, stands on this square. The
imposing look of this 15th century, grey and white gothic
construction—with long, intricately designed windows and spires that reach the
sky—bears testament to the fact that it inspired the designs for the town halls
of Brussels and Ghent.
Right across from
it is a larger-than-life-sized couple passionately kissing in solid bronze. It
is a symbol of the weddings that still take place at the hall, provided the
couple are ready to embrace a long waiting list.
Music to my ears
The Basilica of
the Holy Blood is a charcoal-grey star attraction, ornamented with small golden-plated
statues, situated beside the City Hall. The
building is divided into a chapel and museum, which is home to the alleged
blood of Christ. It is believed that when the blood was first being brought to
the city, it had begun to flow. Once in a year, this relic is taken around the
city in an elaborate, theatrical procession where about 1,800 actors enact
scenes from the Bible.
Bruges’ Bear
A
little off Burg, a stone statue of a bear with a shield in his hand stands
proud in the cavity of a white stone wall. Legend has it, when Baldwin 1, Count
of Flanders first entered the city, the only living being he saw was a bear.
Thus, The Bruges Bear is acknowledged as the oldest citizen of the city and is
its symbol.
By this time
the bell-made music had gotten distinctly closer, and we could see where it was
coming from. We decided to follow it through the nearest street, making our way
past the languid notes of a cello and accordion that floated in the air from
behind a group of tourists. At the end of the lane, we finally found ourselves in
the heart of the city—The Markt—and right in front of The Belfry of Bruges.
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Making our way to Belfort...
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This 13th
century bell tower, also known as Belfort, leans a bit to the right and is the
city’s most important landmark. Its carillon comprising of 47 bells makes it
special. If you’re in the city over the weekend or during a festivity (like we
were), the carillonneur will keep you entertained with a chime every 15 minutes.
The 366 steps to the top of this tower are worth climbing for a vantage point
of the city.
Blowing in the wind
Next, we were
off to get our own bite of heaven. When the Rolling Stones came to Belgium, a
chocolatier by the name of Dominique Persoone
of the Chocolate Line
thought of presenting them with something he knew they would truly appreciate. So,
he specially designed for them a device that shoots decadent, flavoured chocolate
powder straight to the user’s head—The Chocolate Shooter. As we discovered that
afternoon, it’s a sure shot to happiness.
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Oh, yes.
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We stuck our
faces to the window of his store, in awe, drooling at all the exotic chocolate on
display in flavours such as lemongrass, ginger, wasabi, Bollywood curry and
even sundried tomatoes! Besides the city’s various chocolate stores, a tour of
the Chocolate Museum set up by Jacky Vergote is a lesson on all there is to
know about this food.
The Other Flemish Passion
Apart
from interestingly made chocolates, Belgium boasts more than 700 types of
beers. It is home to a 100 odd breweries, 30 of which can be found in Bruges.
Tours of most of these are open to tourists. If fruit beers take your fancy,
then Kriek or cherry beer and Lindemans Pecheresse or peach nectar beer are
must-tries! Apart from this, restaurants in Bruges offer three-, four- and
five-course gourmet meals that are not only cooked in beer, but also served
with ale that perfectly matches the food.
At midday, we were
free to explore the city for ourselves. One of us headed to Kookeet, a food
fair that was being held right outside Belfort, another made his way to the
nearest brewery while the rest of us decided to hire bicycles.
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Cycling
in Bruges without getting run over: check!
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Pigeons cooed
and fluttered out of the way as we cycled past rows of antique stores and beer
pubs cutting across narrow lanes, with the wind in our faces. Numerous canals
run along the roads of this ‘Venice of the North’ that perpetually had me
wanting to whip out the camera. During the last days of autumn, while the sun
is still out, these canals are dotted with open-air cafés and restaurants that
are adorned with colourful flowers.
A lot like love
Right before
the city ends to the south lies a bright blue lake called Minnewater, Lake of
Love. There are many stories around the origin of its name, but my favourite goes
that a young maiden named Meena was in love with a boy who had to leave her
behind to fight a war. While he was away, her father found out about them and
banished her from the house. When her lover returned he searched her out by
this lake, where she lived in dismal circumstances. A sickly Meena died in his
arms.
Avenues of
trees laden with golden leaves that looked ready to fall at the first call of
winter led the way. We sped past peaceful lawns watching couples with picnic
baskets soak in the sun, we slowed down on a narrow wooden bridge where
children bantered while pointing at birds in the canal, and we walked with our
bikes because the view that lay ahead commanded our attention.
Across a
smaller bridge were flocks of ducks paddling beside majestic swans in a lake
set against the backdrop of old-world, brown and grey brick houses. The swans
dipped their heads deep into the water, as if in search of lost treasure, and
flipped their long necks back up in one swift move. Others of these stark white
birds waddled from under trees nearby and plopped themselves onto the lake.
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Lake of
Love or what.
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A gentle breeze
began to blow as I sat by my cycle, watching the sun kiss the water, smoking a
cognac-dipped cigar and thinking about peach beer. Somewhere in the distance,
the bells began to ring.
Bruges is an hour away from Brussels by train
or road. Though you can take a guided tour through it in a horse-drawn carriage
or on a canal cruise, this small city is best experienced on foot or cycle. Most
of Flanders is at its beautiful best between March and October.
